Star Realms Card Tier Lists (incl B&B, F&F, Heroes expansions) (2025)

by Scott Heise aka HomerJr

Editor’s Note: There is a newer version of the Card Tier List, HERE.

[Updated 1/21/2017]

A lot has happened since I originally wrote this card tier ranking almost a year and a half ago. Not only have four new expansions containing 16 new ships/bases been released (B&B, Heroes, and F&F), but I played about 5500 more games in that span. Both of these demand a lot of discussion and necessitate an update to my Tier Lists, so let’s get into it!

Before we get to the updated card tier lists, let’s talk quickly about the new cards introduced in the B&B, F&F, and Heroes expansions. I think these cards are still new enough to many players that it’s worth going into each card in a little detail.

(If you want to skip to the update Tier Lists, they’re down below with my original ranking concept description.)

B&B + F&F Ships and Bases:

• Trade Raft [B] ($1) – No worse than ahalf cost explorer, which becomes “free money” when allied. A great way to spend a leftover $1 in the early game in any deck, or in the mid game also in blue-heavy decks.
• Construction Hauler [B] ($6)– An extremely powerful ally ability makes this a very dangerous card thus usually a must buy, even if just to deny it to your opponent. It becomes especially potent in Heroes formats, as a trade fed hero can be used to guarantee the ally trigger.
• Customs Frigate [F] ($4)–It deceptively sounds like a strong early game card at first glance, but actually works much better as a late game buy when the ally and trash abilities can be used effectively. Otherwise, if you really wanted to add a $4 card to your deck, why didn’t you just buy it in the first place?
• Capitol World [F] ($8) – One of the weaker $8 cards, as it doesn’t provide any offense or deck improvement abilities at all, but never a bad buy if you have the trade to spend due to the card draw. Trying to extend the length of the game via lifegain is usually not as effective as trying to shorten it by aggression.
  
• Defense Bot [B] ($2) – Very similar to the Missile Bot, but worse in the early game and better in the late game.
• Mega Mech [B] ($5) – A very potent late game card, but generally overrated in the early due to the relative weakness of early game bases and finickiness of its base replay ability timing (it usually needs to be drawn in the same hand the base it’s going to replay, which is not likely in the early/mid game). But itcan be totally game changing in the late game when paired with a $6+ base.
• Patrol Bot [F] ($2)–Extremely useful in most decks due to the $2 price point, even without the ally ability, and a much better overall value than its big brother the Patrol Mech because its nearly the same value for half the cost.
• Border Fort [F] ($4) – A very powerful early game base when bought with 1-2 other red cards, but weak otherwise. Mostly worthless in the late game (worse than Battle Station).
• Trade Wheel [B] ($3) – Generally an underwhelming base, butcan be quite useful in the early game if you paired with other weak blob cards such as Trade Pod.
• Obliterator [B] ($6)– Very similar to, but lightly weaker than, theMissile Mechin the mid game and the Battle Blob in the late game. But damage is damage so it’s never a bad buy.
• Spike Pod [F] ($1) – A mediocre $1 buy, it’s best used for removing expensive cards from the trade row that you can’t afford and/or destroying an early game base. It’s best feature is it’s self-trash ability, so it can do it’s job then get the hell out of your deck.
• Death World [F] ($7) – A relatively weak buy in the early/mid game, it’s best value comes in the late game where you can use trade (which is now worthless anyways) to buy a non-green card and immediately trash it for the card draw (you weren’t going to get around to drawing that card anyways).
• Fighter Base [B] ($3)– An absolute boon in yellow-heavy decks, but weak otherwise.Don’t let your opponent get both of them!
• Imperial Trader [B] ($5)–Arguably now the best $5 opening buy (sorry, Battle Mech), getting this card in Deck 1 basically means you can skip buying any more trade and get straight to business. A very strong card in all decks in every phase of the game.
• Cargo Launch [F] ($1) – One of the best $1 buys in the early game, and never a bad buy at any phase of the game due to the auto card draw. Trade-wise, its just about as useful as Survey Ship but for 1/3 the cost. (Its great at spawning memes, too!)
• Star Fortress [F] ($7) – It’s the big brother of the Recycling Station and every bit as useful. It’s beefier, provides some combat, and draw-discard is superior to discard-draw and less likely to get nerfed by discards. The $7 price point is a little steep, but it’s better than Machine Base though probably not quite as good as Central Office.

Heroes

All of the heroes are never bad buys because they don’t take any space in your deck and can be used immediately (no shuffle required). When in doubt, always buy a hero off the board even if they don’t appear to fit well with your deck. At worst, they’re a harmless way to spend $1-2. At best, they can be game changers, especially for the blue and green heroes which can be used trigger the most powerful ally abilities in the game.

• Special Ops Director [H] ($1),CEO Torres [H] ($2) – Blue ships have the strongest ally abilities in the game, so grab these when they’re available and hold on to them in case the Construction Hauler comes up and spend them to ally your Cutter, Flagship, Trade Escort, etc if it doesn’t. The authority gain isicing on the cake.
• War Elder [H] ($1),High Priest Lyle [H] ($2) – Very useful in the early game, especially in Deck 1 to remove vipers before the first shuffle. Scrap is always good, but these heroes don’t have the game changing potential in the mid/late game like the blue and green heroes do. Consider holding on to them to ally with your Patrol Bot or Patrol Mech for a double scrap.
• Ram Pilot [H] ($1), Blob Overlord [H] ($2) – Extra combat is always good, but I prefer grab these and hold on to them as long as possible in case the Blob Carrier shows up.Save them for when you need to take down an opponent’s base, or till the end of the game for the final blow
• Cunning Captain [H] ($1) – Not very useful overall due to the yellow-specific discard ability and weak yellow ally abilities (mostly just +2 combat). Best kept on hand to make sure you can trigger a double discard of the Fighter Base/Royal Redoubt or the 2nddraw-and-discard of the Star Fortress. Obviously we all dream about forcing a Discard 5, but the opportunity doesn’t come up often enough to add significant value to this hero.
• Admiral Rasmusson [H] ($2) – A “colorless” card that is useful in every deck, it’s best use is in the late game to fuel that big turn or avoid an unlucky bottom-decked bomb. It’s not as strong in the early game, as the $2 is better spent buying a ship or base… unless you’re chasing a big $7+ bomb and already have enough trade in your deck.

Original post from August 2015 (updated tier lists below):

Here are my Star Realms Card Tier Lists! The intent of these Tier Lists is to provide a quick reference to help players, especially newer or less experienced players, when deciding which card(s) in the trade row they should buy (or whether to buy a card at all). Every cardthat isavailable in the online app (base plus year 1 promos) is contained withinthese lists and grouped into one of three tiers based on the overall value of the card relative to the cost of the card.

While every card in the game can be valuable and help you win, not every card will have equal value over the course of the game thus there are separate Tier Lists for differentphases of the game (opening buys, mid game, late game).Furthermore, many cards are highly situational or valuable only in certain decks. Please note that this is all just my personal opinion based on over 35008000+ online plays, so don’t take anything in here as law. 🙂 I am always open to feedback, criticism, and discussion. I also hope to do a deeper dive into how/where/why many of these cards derive their value and how best to use them in future strategy articles.

I rank each card into one of threetiers as follows:

• Tier 1: Strong value and/oragnostic to situation;beneficial in almost any deck; youalmost always want to have it in your deck if you can
• Tier 2: Solid value and/or somewhat situational; may rely on ally ability triggers to be effective; generally a goodbuy if no Tier 1 card available
• Tier 3: Weak value and/or highly situational; may need exactly the right game circumstances to be effective; best to avoid buying except in rare cases
• Tier 4: Poor value in nearly all situations; buying this card will probably worsen your deck; you’re probably making a mistake if you’re buying this card

Please note that my intent is not for cards in the same tier acrosscost brackets to be considered equivalent in value. In general, I like to think of cards in the next higher cost bracket have a value one tier higher. For example, a Tier 2 card in the $3-5 cost bracket would have a value on par witha Tier 1 card in the $1-2 cost bracket. Also, cards are listed within acell by faction and cost; the order of cards within a cell is not meant to imply anything about the value of the card relative to the others in the same tier and cost bracket.

($X) = Cost to buy card

[1] = Year 1 Promo/kickstarter card

[B] = Bases & Battleships expansion

[F] = Fleets & Fortressesexpansion

[H] = Heroes expansion

NEW CARDS IN BOLD

I prioritize strong trade and scrapping cards for my opening buys, as well as bases that provide good long-termvalue. Combat cards are generally onlyvaluable at this stage for destroying opposing bases, or forall-out rush strategies when the trade row is combat-heavy.

Updated 1/9/2017

I consider the mid game to be the period after the opening buys where there is still time for trade and scrapping to amortize, and both players have enough authority to survive through atleast their opponent’s next shuffle and afull deck thereafter. During the mid game, I tend to value cards thathelp buy $6-8 cards (but also have late game value), strong bases, and cards that sow the seeds for big rallies in the late game (card draws, top-decking, etc). But be careful… often the mid game doesn’t last very long! If you’re not sure if you’re in the mid game or not, it’s usually best to play as if you’ve already progressed to the late game.

Updated 1/9/2017

I consider the late game to be the point at which trade and scrapping no longer have enough time to provide value, and/or one or both players do not have enough authority to survive the next full play through of their opponent’s deck. During the late game, I tend to value cards that provide maximum combat inas few cards as possible and help fuel big rallies via card draws.

Updated 1/9/2017